The Ports at which the produce of the Northern Coal Field is shipped on the eastern coast of England are Middlesbro' and Port Clarence on the Tees, East and West Hartlepool, Seaham, Sunderland, Newcastle, Shields, Seaton Sluice, Blyth, and Amble near Warkworth.

Redcar, about four miles south of the Tees, though not established as a port for the shipment of coals, has lately risen into importance in consequence of its proximity to the Cleveland Hills, which abound in valuable ironstone, in beds of from 10 to 16 feet in thickness. A railway unites Redcar with Middlesbro', where it joins the Stockton and Darlington Railway, and branches are formed from the Redcar and Middlesbro' line to Birdley Moor, Eston Nab, Roseberry Topping, Birnaldby Moor, Guisbro', and Cod Hill, and the ironstone deposit at Huntcliffe and Redcliffe, on the sea banks. Extensive ironstone workings have been commenced by various parties in this important district, the produce being conveyed by railway to the different places where furnaces have been established for smelting the ore. The principal parties engaged in this rapidly extending branch of trade, are Mr. Pease, who leases a considerable district, including Roseberry Topping, round which he proposes to form a railway, for which he has already obtained an Act of Parliament Messrs. Bolckow and Vaughan, who have extensive iron works at Middlesbro'; Bell, Brothers, at Port Clarence, on the opposite side of the Tees; Charles Atwood and Co., at Towlaw, on the Wear; the Consett Iron Company, who have a large establishment near Shotley Bridge, on the Derwent; and sundry other parties on the Tyne.

About twenty years ago, I went with Mr. Brooks, now Engineer to the Commissioners of the River Tyne, to examine and report upon these valuable iron ores, as may be seen in the report made by him, when engineer for the river Tees, and published in the "Nautical Magazine" for May, 1833.

Notwithstanding the publication of this long and valuable report, calling attention to the immense beds of iron ore, from that time until two or three years ago little notice was taken of that which has since turned out to be so important. Mr. Brooks, at the period referred to, suggested the formation of a harbour at Redcar, not only for mercantile purposes, but as a refuge for ships of war and merchant vessels in stormy weather. The projected harbour comprised an area of 450 acres, admirably situated, and sheltered by rocky promontories north and south, with a depth of twenty feet at low and forty feet at high water. This magnificent scheme might have been carried out at comparatively little cost, on account of the facilities of formation afforded by the locality itself; had such been the case, Redcar would have become a very important place long before this time.

The Tyne, and also the northern and western district of our coal field, would derive immense advantage from the construction of the proposed harbour at Redcar, in consequence of the distance being only thirty miles, and screw steamers could sail to and fro in a few hours and bring the ore to the Tyne for 1s. 6d. per ton, to coal on the spot of a quality extremely suitable for the manufacture of iron. The coal is at present conveyed by the Stockton and Darlington Railway thirty-six miles to the docks at Middlesbro'. If the furnaces are there, the stone must be brought from the places where it is quarried in the hills, by rail either near to or to Middlesbro,' and other places to meet the coal; making the distance for land carriage before the two articles and the limestone meet about forty-five miles. In case the furnaces were erected at or near Redcar, Middlesbro', or Port Clarence, the distance for land carriage would not be diminished. But, were the stone brought from Redcar by sea to the Tyne, where the best coking coals are worked upon the spot, full two-thirds of the cost of carriage would be saved, besides other advantages. Assuming that three-and-a-half tons of iron-ore, with less than one ton of limestone, will make one ton of pig metal, five tons of coal are required for the purpose of manufacturing it into pig metal, and two tons extra coals to make it into bar iron. Two tons of good coke are equal to five tons of coal in the manufacture of pig metal; so that by using coke instead of coal, notwithstanding a little less cost for carriage, the saving might be much greater. From this data a calculation can easily be made of the advantage to be derived from bringing the ore to the locality where the coal, coke, and limestone can be obtained upon the spot, or with only a short lead of a mile or two.

Upwards of twenty years ago, Stockton was the principal shipping place for the Auckland Tees Coal District, with which it was connected at that time by the Stockton and Darlington Railway, which was subsequently extended by a bridge, (which was first a suspension bridge, but when that form of construction did not answer for locomotives and heavy trains, a stone and iron bridge was built) across the Tees to Middlesbro', on the Yorkshire side of the river, where shipping places, with descending drops to put the coal from the waggons into the ships, and a spacious dock have since been erected. Stockton, as a shipping place for coal, has nearly altogether fallen off since that period, although the Tees river tidal water has, at that place and elsewhere, considerably improved and straightened the mouth of the Tees.

About the same time, or shortly after the shipping places at Middlesbro' were established, Port Clarence, on the opposite side of the Tees, was brought, by the formation of the Clarence Railway, into connection with the Coxhoe, Byers-green, Ferry Hill, and Chilton district. Branches have been formed with the Clarence from Stockton to Hartlepool, and also Thirsk and Leeds, and from the Clarence line to the Stockton and Darlington Railway at Simpastures, Bishop Auckland, and Wear Valley, and other places westward. There are other connections between the Clarence, across the Tees, to the Middlesbro' side contemplated, if nothing better can be invented to cheapen the present round-about carriage. All these works have contributed to change the aspect of trade upon each side of the Tees very materially during the last quarter of a century.

The next port north of the Tees is Hartlepool, a safe and commodious harbour, accessible in all weathers. Spacious docks have been constructed here within the last twenty years, which are connected by railways with the neighbouring coal fields, and also with the ironstone district of Cleveland. The old dock is connected by a railway with Thornley, Shotton, Ha swell, and South Hetton, having also a branch from it by Castle Eden, Wingate, the Trimdons, Garmondsway Moor, Cassop Colliery, to the Byers-green and other branches from Ferry Hill, where the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway crosses underneath it. Hartlepool West Harbour, with the railway joining the Clarence, from Stockton to Hartlepool also forms an imporant part, each with a junction at Ferry Hill. These railways unite with the Stockton and Darlington, and the Leeds and Thirsk Railways near Stockton, and the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway at Ferry Hill, to Byers Green, &c., and the West Durham Railway to Bishop Auckland, &c.

The East and West Hartlepool Docks are in the hands of rival Commissioners so that the port charges have always been moderate. They are so, at the present time, and are likely to continue.

At Hartlepool there is one of the best lighthouses in the north of England, and every facility and accommodation are afforded to vessels visiting the port.

Ships of twenty feet water and upwards at extra high tides are able to load in the dock. The lighthouse, which embraces many novel features, amongst others the dioptric lens light, the only one in this part of the country used for such a purpose, was erected under the direction of the Government, ten or twelve years ago, by Stephen Robinson, Esq., civil engineer, Hartlepool.

The next port northward is Seaham, constructed at an enormous expense by the late Marquis of Londonderry, of whose public spirit and commercial enterprise it constitutes a conspicuous monument.

The valuable and extensive estate of Seaham, rich in mineral treasures, was purchased by the noble marquis from Sir R. Noel, formerly Milbanke, about thirty years ago.

Shortly after obtaining possession of the property, his lordship commenced the construction of a harbour at Seaham, with the advice of Win. Chapman, Esq., civil engineer (who had previously designed the first plan), and his chief agent, the late John Buddle, Esq., of Wallsend, who afterwards made many extensions and great improvements, and whose name will ever be honourably associated with the coal-fields of the north of England.

The locality presented many formidable obstacles to such an undertaking. The sea-board was by no means favourable. It was necessary to excavate the limestone rock, which here forms the ocean barrier. Public opinion generally pronounced the scheme, if not impracticable, an unprofitable and bold undertaking. On making the first experiment at excavating, when many thousands were assembled at the opening ceremony, a conical pinnacle of rock, weighing thousands of tons, was fired with gunpowder and blown into the air, when several of the people were injured. The marquis and his agent, Mr. Buddle, fired the shot, retreating into a creek during the explosion, while the marchioness witnessed the scene from an adjoining height, in company with an immense assemblage of people. Year after year the noble marquis pursued his laudable object, undaunted by difficulties (as he was in everything he undertook), which would have dismayed ordinary minds. He surmounted every obstacle, and now a populous and prosperous port and town, the convenient outlet of an extensive and valuable coal district, justify the foresight of the noble marquis, and his manager, John Buddle, Esq., and enable us to appreciate their sound judgment, spirited enterprise, and dauntless courage.

As an individual, undertaking the construction of Seaham Harbour, he stands without a parallel in this country, except at Cardifl in Wales, where the same may be said of the late Marquis of Bute in making docks and harbour at that place.

The coal wrought from his own royalties, which are very extensive, independently of those which he held under the Dean and Chapter of Durham and others, was shipped at Seaham, the Tyne, the River Wear Drops, and the Sunderland Docks, to which they are contiguous. Seaham yields sufficient revenue for interest in port charges to maintain the harbour in an efficient condition, and defray the cost of necessary improvements, so that, as a private undertaking, the expenditure of capital has been judicious and remunerative at last.

The shipments are not confined to those of the late noble marquis only, which were considered to be far more than he could ever make accommodation for, but they embrace the coal produce of the Grange, North and South Hetton, Dalton, and two Seatons, extensive collieries belonging to the marquis and wealthy companies, many of them having railways of their own, and, it is probable that in a short time, other collieries will be brought into these arrangements for part of the accommodation they require. Overtures with that object were made to the proprietors, and his lordship offered to extend the present and lay down a new railway.

The coal under the Seaham estate comprises the justly celebrated Hutton seam, which is deservedly held in high repute. Next to Seaham and Seaton are Silksworth and Ryhope royalties, also in good repute.

Not only are the present working collieries of the late noble Marquis sufficient of themselves to sustain the prosperity of the port of Seaharn, but there are extensive royalties in reserve, not only belonging to, but under lease to the late Marquis and others, viz., Earl of Durham, Haswell, Great Hetton, South Hetton, and two Seatons, and for which they have paid in "dead rent" several thousands annually, amounting to upwards of £150,000, and if interest were taken into account another £100,000 might be fairly added, making something like a quarter of a million for five parties only, who are ready to work out the same whenever they think it profitable and desirable to do so.

The "dead rents" paid by various parties in the counties of Northumberland and Durham in this way, and which apparently profitless expenditure they must continue for many years to come, in order to carry out the object for which they embarked in such a course, must add greatly to the capital embarked. There are no means readily accessible for ascertaining the aggregate amount of "dead rents" paid annually in these two counties, but, judging from facts which have from time to time come within our own knowledge, the amount now paid may be taken at more than double the sum named. The gross amount at present paid being about £360,000. A further amount of 150,000 or more may be said to be paid to landlords for surface wayleaves.

The object of such payments is obvious. They constitute a large item in the expense of maintaining not a monopoly of coal districts, but of reserving to each coal owner sufficient territory of coal equal to the capital he has employed for the plant and railroads and other stock, by keeping enterprising individuals, and especially small proprietors, out of the best field or coal districts.

Proceeding northward from Pensher, we reach the flourishing port of Sunderland, situated at the confluence of the River Wear with the sea. This port is the largest in respect of tonnage in ship-building of any in the United Kingdom, or even in the world. There spacious docks afford accommodation to vessels of the largest class, where they may ride in safety in the most tempestuous weather. The entrance at the south side will soon be finished.

Coals are extensively shipped at this port, besides various articles of general merchandise. Iron, lead, glass, and earthenware, are the chief articles of export besides coal; and the imports, beyond timber, hemp, and tallow, are comparatively insignificant. The River Wear flows through a large portion of the county of Durham, but is only navigable for ships to Southwick and Victoria Bridge, which is about seven miles west of the sea, above the beautiful cast iron bridge, of a single span, resting upon rock abutments on both sides, built upwards of fifty years ago, by the late Rowland Burdon, Esq., a name familiar as a "household word" in the colliery districts of the Tyne and Wear.

There is little to relate of Sunderland beyond what may be found in any hand-book or directory of the place. The town is united by a branch railway, (which goes through a coal field already taken up) to Pensher, on the line of the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway, and it also possesses railway communication with East and West Hartlepool, Durham, Stockton, Darlington, Monkwearmouth Dock on the north side of the Wear, and Railway to Stanhope in Weardale, and various parts of the county in which it is situated, and which, perhaps, more appropriately than any other port in the United Kingdom, may be described as being "girded with railways." Monkwearmouth, on the north side of the Wear, belonging to Sir Hedworth Williamson, is, through that gentleman's liberality in granting long leases, becoming an important place for ship building, factories, dwelling houses, &c. The Newcastle Railway runs to the North Dock.

The late Marquis of Londonderry, who had constructed a railway from Rainton and his collieries to Seaham, was constructing another of his own at the time of his death, between Seaham and Sunderland, with a view of shipping a portion of the produce of his extensive coal-fields in the capacious docks near the south entrance of the harbour of the latter place. This work is still in progress. For these docks the inhabitants of Sunderland are almost wholly indebted to the wonderful enterprise of one man, George Hudson, Esq., one of the members for the borough.

The Hetton Coal Company and the Earl of Durham have each railways of their own to the port. of Sunderland, on the River Wear, and ship coals to a large amount every year. The Monkwearmouth Company, on the south side of the Wear, have also shipping places on the opposite side. Coals are also shipped in the Docks at Monkwearmouth and Bishopwearmouth. Usworth and other pits work coal and ship the same at the North and South Docks, to which places they are conveyed by public railways belonging to the York and Berwick Railway Company.

The chief port upon the north eastern coast of England, comprising the limit of the Northern Coal-field above described, is undoubtedly the Tyne, recently subdivided into the port of Newcastle and the port of Shields.

The River Tyne forms the natural division between the counties of Northumberland and Durham, for the two coal-fields through it are not in all places topographically bounded by it. The town of Newcastle is situated on the north bank of this river, about nine miles from its confluence with the German Ocean, and, as already stated, has long been regarded as the metropolis of the Northern Coal-field; a distinction to which it is entitled, as well for its antiquity; the conspicuous position it occupies in the history of the district; the number, intelligence, and wealth of its inhabitants; and the large extent of business operations carried on within its precincts, as from the peculiarity of its situation in the midst of those material elements which have essentially contributed towards the development of the industry, wealth, and greatness of the British nation.

The river Tyne affords excellent shipping berths for vessels of a large class, there being deep tidal water nearly all the way from the bar at Tynemouth, through the port of Shields, up to the spacious quay at Newcastle.

This quay was enlarged a few years ago, at the sole expense of the Corporation, in order to meet the requirements of an extending trade, and improvements on a scale of great magnitude are also contemplated at the mouth of the river. Mr. Walker, in his report of 1854, recommends that extensive piers should be erected both on the north and the south side of the entrance to the river.

There is plenty of tidal water for vessels west of Newcastle, up to Blaydon and Stella, in a most valuable coal-field, but at present the navigation is greatly impeded by the old Tyne bridge, with its numerous low narrow arches, and also by an upthrow, or stone dyke, which crosses the river below Lemington. Both these obstructions cripple the tidal flow; one by narrowing the channel, the other by lessening its depth, and never altering on account of its being rock, but which could easily be removed. In neap tides the navigation near Lemington is altogether stopped in consequence of there being so little water upon the rock. About a mite westward of this rock, the soft bed of the river is scoured to a depth of nearly twenty feet, but the river again runs shallow at Blaydon Burn Foot, further west, where it is too wide and dammed back by deposits in the river, and by an old quay, of no use to any one for the last thirty years, which might be blown up in a day and carried away. The bed of gravel might be easily removed out of the river at Blaydon Burn Foot. The navigation is not required much further up the river at present, but still further westward several minor obstructions occur. At my suggestion, the late T. G. Dunn, Esq., chairman of the then River Committee, and Mr. Brooks, then engineer to the Newcastle Corporation, commenced removing the upthrow of stones near Lemington, which has already improved the navigation. A few points below the Derwent are also rendered difficult by the injudicious width of the river.

It is probable that the old bridge across the Tyne at Newcastle will be removed, since better accommodation is now offered by the stupendous High Level Bridge, erected by the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway Company, after the design of R. Stephenson, Esq., M.P., the celebrated civil engineer, who has combined in this magnificent structure, the highest degree of architectural skill, with the noblest emanations of mechanical science. This bridge is without a parallel in the world, and after the old structure shall have been swept away by the onward tide of civilization, vessels of the largest class may proceed five miles westward to Blaydon and Stella, thereby benefitting the commerce of the Tyne.

The banks of coaly Tyne exhibit an interesting subject for contemplation. They are studded with manufactories. Scarcely a span is there to be found without its hive of industry in continued operation.

The smelting of iron ore, and the manufacture of that metal, are carried forward upon a large scale in several extensive establishments on the Tyne, of long standing. Their chief supply of raw material is not derived from the immediate locality of the works, but from Cleveland, Scotland, and Cumberland. The expense of transit, however, is amply compensated for by the proximity of the locality to the coal-field.

The same remarks apply to manufactories for steam engines, foundries, alkali, acids, soda, potash, glass, lead, soap, fire-brick, earthenware, and grindstones, which are conducted upon a scale of great magnitude. There can be no doubt whatever, but that the cheapness of labour, and of good coal, coke, and water, and the facility of obtaining them, are the principal elements which have contributed to attract capitalists to select this locality for the seat of the manufactories above described, and as a central local seat it is now more appreciated than ever.

Within a recent period, several establishments have been founded for builders of steam, screw, and iron sailing vessels, a branch of industry in which the Clyde has for some time past largely participated.

The facility afforded for the manufacture of iron made almost on the spot, with little carriage, has contributed to this result. But what has been the chief element of Tyneside prosperity ? — The abundant supply of cheap labour, and of coal, coke, and water of the best quality, at the cheapest rate, which has been, and will continue to be supplied to those who require them. For miles, the land and water embrace each other under a canopy of coal drops. Most of the collieries which work coal on the Tyne are either close to, or within a moderate distance of that noble river. It is worthy of remark, that the greater part of them on both sides of the Tyne have not been successful for the last twenty years. Before this period, one particular instance to the contrary may be mentioned. Wallsend, within half a mile of the river, while working what is called the Main coal seam, was so prosperous as to add greatly to the wealth of its proprietor, and identified its name with the "black diamond," not only in the metropolis of England, but in every coal mart of the world; but when that portion of this valuable coal seam was exhausted, about thirty years ago, and this pit was sunk to and worked with the Bensham and the other coal seams below this, it sank to the level of the others of the same sort in the district. It was given up in 1831; since that time it has been carried on by other parties up to the present day, struggling on the same footing, or even lower. This is one instance of an owner, who, some forty years after the year 1780, having made so bold and wise a stroke at that date, as to sink a pit at such great expense, and hazarded so large a stake as nearly to exhaust a moderate fortune, as is generally the case, before any returns. However, it did get under-way with coal working that year, and for ten or fifteen years sold coals at about six shillings per ton. After that, for forty years or so, the prices got much higher, making the fifty years from the commencement to the time when it came into other hands, after which, little competition existed for about forty years. It may now not be out of course to state that I heard the agent boast that, while exhausting this valuable seam, over about forty years, by working two million chaldrons, or equal to five millions three hundred and fifty thousand tons, he realized the large sum of ten shillings per chaldron, or one million sterling in gain. This was an excellent household coal at that day. During the year 1786, one pit was on fire, and only worked that year 4000 chaldrons; the same year they put up a Bolton and Watt steam engine at the C pit; and it is worthy of further remark, that the said owner at that period of time, bought large estates in the western part of the county of Durham with part of his profits, and left a memorandum before his death, which event took place some time after, that this territory might come into profitable play in fifty years time, as it had several fine workable seams of coal under the same, not of the same quality as the household at Wallsend, but of a different though finer quality, as to be suitable at the present day for coke and gas purposes, for which there is now an immense demand; and this district, so valuable, is now coming into play as one of the most valuable of our coke-coal districts. The results realized at present, and in prospect, will amount to an immense sum yearly for the present proprietor, and quite possibly make, over the same number of years as above alluded to, similar profit to the large amount already named.

The superior quality of the Wallsend coal for household purposes that was yielded from the mine at that time, was a great portion of the high-priced or best coal required at that day, and gave it a most decided advantage in the market over many others of a more tender description. It, like a few others, at that time, such as Percy Main, Whitley, St. Hilda, Jarrow, Walker, Heaton, St. Lawrence, the two Elswicks, Fenham, Benwell, &c., that had a portion of this good coal seam, have now to resort to work coal in the Bensham and other lower seams of a much inferior quality, which works tender, and these now, as well as other collieries, enjoy no such decided advantage over their competitors as they did some time ago.

Among the several ports on the sea boundaries of the coal district that of Newcastle is pre-eminent, as it has long been and must continue to be while the navigable water which has so largely contributed to its prosperity shall lave its populated shores, and bear upon its bosom the products of its active industry to distant people and to foreign lands. The River Tyae is under the special guardianship of a Board of Commissioners, but was formerly under the jurisdiction of the Corporation of Newcastle, who, it may be remarked, although deriving a large revenue from it in various forms, were considered by many not very assiduous in discharging the duties of Conservancy which devolved upon them; or, perhaps, they might not have the ample means at their disposal to effect that for the Tyne, which the citizens of Glasgow, within the last thirty years, have accomplished for the Clyde. The duties of Conservancy have been transferred to other hands, and it is to be hoped that those to whom they are now confided will avoid the censure which public opinion awarded to their predecessors.

The Tyne is capable of vast improvements, but this is not the place to indicate either the nature of them or the extent to which they should be carried out.

The present prosperity of the Tyne has arisen from sundry causes, involving mighty changes in the coal trade of the district, to which attention will be more particularly directed hereafter.

Before leaving the Tyne, however, there is one observation incidental to the general subject, which may be mentioned. When Mr. Rowland Burden built Sunderland Bridge he conferred an invaluable boon upon the inhabitants on both sides of the River Wear. With admirable foresight he effected arrangements, which, in a comparatively few years, discharged the cost of the erection, and the passage has since been thrown open, no toll being exacted. The venerable architect lived respected and died regretted in ripe old age, within a few weeks of the time when this magnificent work was confided to the public care. The Tyne Bridge at Newcastle has been for some years exempt from toll, a privilege for which the inhabitants are indebted to the munificence of his Grace the late Duke of Northumberland, whose noble successor, the present Duke, reared and tutored as a British sailor, and inheriting all the excellent qualities that have rendered his ancestry renowned in war and foremost in the arts of peace, has established an especial claim to the gratitude and respect of all interested in the prosperity of the port, by his having exerted his influence and contributed largely from his princely means towards the establishment of shipping docks on the Tyne at Hayhole, upon a scale of considerable magnitude. As another instance of his Grace's liberality towards the mineral trade of the district, from which he derives a great benefit, it may be stated that his support has been largely given toward the project of a railway up the North Tyne from the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway, near Hexham, which will bring the manufactured iron of Hareshaw into this district.

There have been many projects before the public, from time to time, for the formation of docks on the Tyne; but notwithstanding the admitted necessity for such accommodation, and the professed willingness of parties to meet the requirements of the case, these various projects were suffered to fall to the ground, and have been almost forgotten. The example set by his Grace the Duke of Northumberland and the gentlemen who are associated with him in the undertaking at Hayhole will be, it may be hoped, taken up and followed by other enterprising individuals at St. Peter's, below bridge, and several other places above Newcastle, and if so, we may expect in a few years to have dock accommodation there, and at Jarrow on the south side of the Tyne, that may excel all other places in the world; also for cheap coal and coke such as Warkworth, Amble, Seaton Sluice, and Blyth, that have grown up in reliance principally on such coal resources, as well as the Middlesbro', Tees, Hartlepool, Seaham, and Sunderland Docks.

True, the basin of the Tyne is itself a capacious dock; but modern times have given birth to a system of centralization which is admirably organized and sustained in our docks and warehouses on the Thames, the Mersey, and the Humber.

Pursuing the eastern limit of the coal-field, we arrive successively at Seaton Sluice, a sort of dock or artificial harbour, which has been cut out of the solid rock at an enormous expense. Then further north we have Blyth. Near to Warkworth, on the Coquet, is Amble Harbour, the trade of which consists chiefly in the shipment of coal from one or two collieries in the neighbourhood, which hitherto have produced a sort of low priced steam coal.

There are many statistical details relative not only to the trade of the different ports on the northern coast of England, comprised in the limits above described, and the facilities they afford for shipping, but these would lead into matters beyond the province of the present paper.

At the same time it may be useful to give the depth of water on the bars of the rivers and harbours on the north-eastern coast during spring tides, at which coals are shipped —

# Feet. In. #The Tyne 24 0 #The Wear 18 6 #Seaham 16 0 #Hartlepool 19 0 #The Tees at Middlesbro' 16 0 #Redcar (sea coast) 43 0 #Cowpen, or Seaton Sluice 15 0 #Blyth 13 0 #Coquet #Amble 13 0 #Ratcliffe